The opportunity of having a whole season of flowering daffodils, tulips, and hyacinths indoors during winter is a reality. Little (minor) bulbs, such as snowdrops, scilla, muscari, chionodoxa, and crocus force equally well as the large (major) bulbs, daffodils, tulips, and hyacinth. Both the major and minor bulbs are handled in the same way, although the forcing period may vary slightly. Some cultivars (early cultivars and those that do not grow too tall) are better suited for forcing than others. Catalogs will usually identify forcing varieties.
The term "forcing" refers to inducing a plant to produce its shoot, leaf, and flower ahead of its natural schedule and out of its natural environment. To force hardy bulbs you need to mimic and compress the process the plant would undergo outdoors in the garden.
Type Of Pot
The type of pot (plastic versus clay) is a personal preference. Plastic pots do not dry out as rapidly as clay, are easier to clean and lighter in weight, as well as less expensive. Clay pots have aesthetic qualities in and of themselves and don't necessarily need a basket or covering to be attractive. Bulbs will grow equally well in either. The pots should be scrubbed clean before use and clay pots soaked for several hours to saturate pores.
When Forcing Bulbs, SIZE Is Important!
When buying bulbs for forcing, always choose first-rate, top-size varieties. If purchasing through mail-order, order bulbs by August or earlier to ensure adequate time to receive the bulbs by the first part of October. If you buy from the local garden center, scrutinize them the way you would produce at the grocery store; don't buy bulbs that are soft or sprouting. High-quality, large bulbs are necessary because the bulb contains the food required to produce a flowering plant.
Type Of Soil For Forcing Bulbs In Containers
Since bulbs need moisture and perfect drainage, a mixture of equal parts peat moss, potting soil, sand and vermiculite or perlite is best. Mix thoroughly and moisten with enough water to a damp consistency. If you anticipate planting bulbs outdoors after forcing, add 1 teaspoon of 5-10-5 dry fertilizer to every quart of soil mix to give the bulbs an extra boost after flowering. Hyacinths, crocus, and narcissi can be grown in pebbles and water - with no additional nutrients, however, they are usually completely exhausted and should be disposed of after blooming.
Planting Bulbs In The Pot
The next step in planting is to place a few pieces of broken crockery over the drainage holes, to prevent the soil from running out initially and clogging later. Fill your pot half-full of soil mix, then adjust the soil level until the tops of the bulbs reach the rim of the container. Plant bulbs with the pointed ends up, as close together as possible, without letting them touch. Tulip and other bulbs with a flat side should be planted with the flat side facing the edge of the container. This will allow the first leaves to form a border around the edge of the pot.
Add enough soil mix to fill the pot, and water the bulbs thoroughly from the top or immerse in a tub of water - this will settle the soil around the bulbs. Label each pot with the name of the cultivar, date of planting and date to bring out of cold storage.
How Many Bulbs Per Pot?
Daffodils, narcissi, crocus, muscari and other bulbs look great in pots when planted in groups of three, five, or more. Hyacinths look quite handsome when planted singly, or in groups. Dense plantings are recommended for minor bulbs.
