Types of Pruning Cuts
It would be impossible to provide instructions here on all the various pruning techiques there are for all the various types of shrubs. And some shrubs, such as Hydrangeas, require specific pruning techniques that are based upon whteher the shrub blooms on "new wood" or "old wood". Shrubs that bloom on "new wood" can typically be pruned during the late Winter or early Spring, while shrubs thast bloom on "old wood" (from the previous year's growth), should not be pruned until after they have bloomed. And there's hundreds of species of shrubs. So, you see why it is impossible to address every pruning technique for every shrub, here, on this one page. But there are two basic types of pruning cuts that can be made.
TIP: Use the Search at the top of any page on our website to look up a specific variety of plant by common or botanical name. When you find the plant you are looking for, you can visit its Plant File page where you can find specific pruning instructions.
The Two Basic Cuts
There are two basic types of pruning cuts:
Heading Cuts:Heading cuts stimulate growth of buds closest to the wound. The direction in which the top remaining bud is pointing will determine the direction of new growth. Make heading cuts selectively to reduce shrub height and retain natural form. Non-selective heading cuts made indiscriminately will stimulate rapid regrowth from buds below the cut. These vigorous shoots are unattractive and make shrubs bushier, but not smaller. Non-selective heading cuts are only justifiable when using hedge clippers on a hedge or topiaried shrub.
Cutting plant stems back to a bud, twig or stub using heading cuts can lead to potential problems - a stub is often left and may become infested with insects or diseases, vigorous growth may be stimulated, and the new growth may be weakly attached and could split or crack under pressure. This may also negatively affect the desirable, graceful arching habit of some shrubs.

Thinning Cuts: Thinning cuts remove branches at their points of origin or attachment to another branch. Used in moderation, thinning cuts reduce shrub density without stimulating regrowth. Make pruning cuts correctly. For heading cuts, prune 1/4 inch above the bud, sloping down and away from it. Avoid cutting too close, or steep, or the bud may die. A "bud" is a small protuberance on a stem or branch, sometimes enclosed in protective scales and containing an undeveloped shoot, leaf, or flower. When pruning above a node with two or more buds, remove the inward-facing ones. A "node" is the place on a plant stem where a leaf is attached. Make thinning cuts just above parent or side branches and roughly parallel to them.
There are advantages to thinning cuts - No stub is left, the plant retains its natural shape, and vigorous new shoot growth is avoided. Caution: removing more than about 30% of the foliage can stimulate new growth even if thinning cuts are used.
TIP: Don't coat pruning cuts on shrubs with paint or wound dressing. These materials won't prevent decay or promote wound closure.
Aside from heading and thinning cuts, there are techniques for "maintenance pruning".



