How To Build A Garden Pond
So you're thinking about building a garden pond? It's really not too difficult to build one yourself. A pond may offer a number of benefits. It can be cool and relaxing, visually appealing and it can provide the local wildlife a watering point. Aside from the enjoyment, it can increase the value of your property. You can use the guidelines below to help determine where and what type of pond you actually want to build in your landscape. Instructions for building a simple garden pond are included.
Getting Started
It is important to know the reason why you are building this pond before the actual construction. Before you build your garden pond, it's best to have a well thought out plan. Have you decided on the location?
Location: Where will you're garden pond be located? You'll probably want to put your garden pond in a location where it can be viewed and heard from as many points as possible: near a patio or deck, an outdoor living area, or a location from where it can be viewed and heard through windows from inside the home. However, almost any location is acceptable. Just make sure that your pond can be viewed and heard by you and your guests from sitting areas and other viewpoints.
Look for an area that offers a slope. Slopes are perfect for use as a backdrop, and as a foundation in constructing your waterfall.
If you will want to grow water lilies in your pond, choose a site where your pond will receive a good amount of sunshine. Pond plants such as water lilies need sunlight to grow. If your pond will be shallow, it is best to place your pond where it can be exposed to sun, but not too much as it can over heat during mid afternoon. A semi shaded place with a good amount of light coming through is sufficient enough. If you aren't concerned with growing flowering plants in the pond, a shady spot is fine. Keep in mind that the roots of large trees have a way of getting in the way during the digging process.
Consider electricity supply for pumps, filters, and lights when designing your pond. If your pond will have a waterfall, it will need electricity - so locate your pond accordingly.
Ponds must have an overflow area (a place located below the rest of the pond height) to control where the excess water should go when there is heavy rainfall.
Size: Do you want a mini-lake out back, or a smaller garden pond off the back patio? Do you want a waterfall, and if so, how big and how tall? Do you want a raging river, or just a simple stream or trickle of water over the waterfall?
Temperature extremes should be minimized on the pond. If you intend on raising and keeping fish, it is important to make the pond as deep and as large as practical. However, deeper ponds may need to be fenced to prevent accidents.
If you want a small pond, maybe one with a 5 to 10 feet length and/or width for a water surface area, with a few small goldfish swimming around and a few small plants for accents, you're at the right place.
If you want a raging river that splashes over Mount Everest, and you have very little or no experience in the construction of a garden pond, we suggest you contact a pond professional. To build a big garden pond, with big features, you can ask for advice from your pond professional or, at a minimum, spend some serious time reading books that are concerned with building more elaborate ponds and the techniques for construction.
Plants & Fish: Do you want lots of larger fish such as Koi, smaller goldfish, or no fish at all? Do you want plants growing inside the pond, and if so, what types?
Liners: Have you decided what type of liner? Chances are, if you have come to this page you are inerested in using your own creative abilities to design and integrate a freestyle garden pond in your landscape, and your choice of liner will be a flexible one. On the other hand, if you aren't confident in your creative ability, a preformed, rigid liner molded with hard plastic may be the way to go. If so, not all of the guidelines for construction below will apply. You'll need to follow the instructions included with your kit for installation.
IMPORTANT!
Before buying any materials or a garden pond kit, begin, if you haven't already done so, by drawing a simple sketch on paper of the general shape you want for your garden pond. As a general rule, a 180 square-foot or 10' x 15' pond is a good "standard"" size water feature - however, build whatever size and shape you want if using a flexible liner. Include in your sketch where the waterfall(s) will be located.
Building Your Small Garden Pond
Though many of your own smaller creative decisions will be made during the process of building your garden pond, here are some basic guidelines you can follow for construction of a small garden pond:
Tools You Might Need:
- Round and flat point shovels
- Carpenters level
- 2x4" stick of lumber 8' or more in length
- Can of orange spray paint
- Pruners to cut through small roots
- Wheelbarrow, maybe
- Leather gloves
- Measuring Tape
NOTE: The most convenient way to build a garden pond that has all the essential and appropriate parts is by using a good garden pond kit. Savio Pond Kits include everything you need to build a full-size pond with professional results, except for stone, plants or other materials you will use to surround the pond. Savio systems merge seamlessly into the landscape, so the end result is a great-looking garden pond.
- STEP 1: Outline Shape. Begin by using marking paint, or lay out a garden hose, to outline the shape of your pond. This outline should be the perimeter shape of the water surface area.
Most pond excavations have flat ledges - called "plant shelves" - at different depths all around the perimeter. These plant shelves allow for the placement of different types of plantings of varying heights. Paint out these lines for shelves as well. Typically, you'll want a deeper area (24-36") for fish to hide and stay warmer during winter. Then a shelf level at 12-24" deep for certain plants, and another shelf level at 6-12' for certain other plants.
If you plan to have a waterfall mark out where it will be as well.
SEE: Building A Waterfall
Caution: If you have even the slightest suspiscion that you will be digging near buried cables make sure to call your local utility companies to have the location of these cables marked before digging.
- STEP 2: Excavation. Now that you've outlined your pond excavation may begin. Start by first digging out the deepest section of your pond. If you plan to have fish, make sure to dig one section of the pond at least 24" deep by 18" wide to provide a safety zone if predators come around. Dig this hole in a central location within the perimeter of your pond. Post hole diggers may be necessary for digging narrower holes.
If the ground area around your garden pond is flat, you can use the excavated dirt to build a mound for where your waterfall will be located. Build the mound for your waterfall anywhere from 12 to 36" in height. Likewise, additional excavated dirt can be used to create a low raised berm aorund the entire pond. SEE: Building A Waterfall
If you are building your pond into an emankment, use the excavated dirt around the lower perimeter to build a berm that will be equal in height with the base of your waterfall. This will ensure that when you fill your pond with water, the liner won't show on the side where your waterfall is located.
After digging out the deepest area of the pond (24-36" depth), work outward digging the next level (18" depth), and then the next (12" depth).
TIP: If you plan to use a submersible pump, and would like to make sure that it is hidden from view, excavate an area underneath where the waterfall will be. This area should only be wide and deep enough to house your pump and the container or pot that you will enclose it in.
TIP: As you excavate dirt and build berms aorund the perimeter keep a carpenter level handy. You can use a 2x4 stick of lumber to check for level. Place one end of the 2x4 at one sise of the excavated hole, across to the other side. Use a carpenters level atop the 2x4 to check for level. Check level from different angles as you go. If you don't obtain good level, parts of your liner may be exposed after filling the pond with water. Minor adjustments can always be made later.
- STEP 3: Remove Debris. After excavation is completed, remove any rocks, sticks, and other debris that might poke a hole or cut your lioner. If you want to be on the safe side, line the bottom of the pond excavation with an inch or two of sand, and a 1/4 -inch layer of newspaper or carpet.
Flatten the tops of soil berms you might have constructed around the perimeter so that stones will lay flatly upon them.
- STEP 4: Measuring for Liner. Liner size is calculated based on the width, length and depth of the excavation, the size and number of plant shelves, and the amount of edge overhang, so the sizing will be more accurate if done after the excavation is complete.
To measure, use a sewing or construction measuring tape. Start by measuring the length at the widest point. Place one end of the measuring tape at a point 12-18" outside the perimeter of the excavated hole, or 12-18" beyond the base of a berm. Press the measuring tape against the ground, going over berms and down through the excavated hole and back up over the other side to a point 12-18" beyond the perimeter of the excavation or base of a berm. Make sure measuring tape is always contacting the soil over any shelves and levels. Write this measurement down. Do the same for the width. You may want to add an extra foot or so to both the legth and width, just in case.
Take several measurements of the various depths of your pond. Note the width and length of the areas at the various depths as well. Write these measurements down on your design if you did one. Also measue the height of your waterfall. These measurements will allow a pond store professional to determine what size of pump will be necessary for your waterfall.
NOTE: If you will be constructing a tall waterfall additional measurements will need to be taken. Measure height of waterful so that your waterfall liner will extend from a point beneath the waterfall, to a point where your liner will drape over the back and down to ground level. SEE: Building A Waterfall
Calculating Water Volume: This is not absolutely necessary for you to do, but the measurements in the equation be useful to your pond store professional.
Rectangular Pond: Length in feet x width in feet x depth in feet =cubic feet. Example: 10' L x 6' W x 2' D = 120 cubic feet x 7.5 gallons = 900 gallons
Circular Pond: 3.14 (1/2 diameter in feet x 1/2 diameter in feet) x depth in feet = cubic feet. Example: If your the diameter of your circular pond (from one side to the other) is 10 feet, and the depth is 2 feet, the equation would look like this: 5' W x 5' L x 3.14 = 78.5 x 2' D = 157 cubic feet x 7.5 gallons = 1,177 gallons.
Free Form Shapes: Break the pond down into a series of rectangles and circles and figure the volume of each area separately, then add the volumes together.
NOTE: Each cubic foot contains 7.5 gallons of water, so always multiply the total number of cubic feet times 7.5 to determine the total number of gallons. Write down the total volume of water your pond contains. And remember, you don't have to calculate water volume. If you have the basic measurements as to width, length and depth of your pond, this will be enough information for your pond store professional.
- STEP 5: Purchasing Materials & Supplies: The reason to wait until this point to purchase supplies is that you never know how wide or deep you will actually go when it comes to the excavation process. What if you prepurchased a custom-cut liner that ended up to be too small? You want to wait until the excavation is completed to measure and then purchase the pond liner, pump, and other supplies.
Choosing a Liner - A flexible pond liner is a heavy, black rubberized or synthetic material that is specially designed and manufactured for this purpose. Do not use plastic sheathing, swimming pool liners, or other materials for your pond liner, as they are easily damaged and can be susceptible to degradation by sunlight and freezing temperatures. Consult with your local pond supply store as to the various types of liners available in which to line your pond with. If the best liner is only a few dollars more, get it.
Choosing a Pump for a Waterfall: Pumps are available in both submersible and external (out-of-pond models). Reputable water garden suppliers have charts and other information available that can help you select the best model and connecting equipment for your purposes. For the smaller pond, a submersible pump is the most economical. Depending on the size of the pond, a filter and even a skimmer may also be incorporated. SEE: Building A Waterfall
Pumps come in a confusing array of models and sizes.You will need a pump if you are planning on moving water in your pond, whether by a waterfall, stream, fountain, or spouting ornament.
Pumps are sized by gallons per hour (GPH) output at one foot of lift or height. Larger capacity pumps are rated by horsepower (hp). Manufacturers offer charts that break down the power of each size pump according to incremental heights of one foot. Some companies label pumps by GPH while others assign letter or number designations that require cross-referencing to charts.Your local pond supply dealer can help you in choosing the right pump.
It is recommended that the water in a basic pond be turned between1/2 to 1 times per hour. A 500-gallon pond should have at least a 500 Gallon Per Hour pump. When sizing a pump for a pond there are a few other considerations. How high will the pump have to lift water? Will there be a waterfall or fountain? Will there be filters? All of these variables reduce the amount of flow, which could affect water quality and clarity.
Don't let any of this technical information about pumps scare you away! A few simple measurements taken will provide your pond supply source or local pond consultant with the information needed to assist you in choosing the right pump. Just remember this: DO NOT skimp on the pump!
To determine the pump required for your pond take and write these measurements down:
Estimate the vertical height from the top of your pump (from where it will sit in your pond) to the top of your waterfall or stream and write this measurement down. Add another foot of height (or lift) for every 10 feet of hosing you will be using and write this measurement down.
If you plan to have a stream, a general rule of thumb is to figure your stream/waterfall requirement as 150 gallons per hour per inch width of the spillway or channel. For example, if your stream or waterfall spillway will be 10 inches wide, you will need a pump that produces a flow of 1500 gallons per hour (at whatever combined height of the feature and another foot of height for every ten feet of hosing to get there). This may sound a bit confusing so just write down all the measurements (heights and widths) you can think of so that when you consult with a professional he/she will have these measurement to assist you in determining the size pump you need.
TIP: It is best to purchase a pump that will more than handle your needs as pumps come with valves that allow you to reduce the amount of flow, if necessary or desired.
Submersible pumps are placed directly in the pond. They are free of distracting noise and can be used to drain your pond when necessary. These pumps do have a disadvantage. The pump seal can rupture, sending oil coolant into the water. This can prevent surface gas exchanges, thereby endangering your fish. We would recommend the new magnetic-drive pump, which avoids the use of coolants. They are more expensive to buy but are far less expensive to operate.
Recommended Tubing Diameter For Pumps To Waterfalls:
- 1/2-inch diameter for flows up to 120gph
- 3/4-inch diameter for flows up to 350gph
- 1-inch diameter for flows up to 1000gph
- 1 1/4 inch for flows up to 1500 gph
- 1 1/2 inch for flows up to 3000 gph
Filtration: A well designed larger pond should include filitration. Ask your pond supplier about a filtration system that will work well with the pump you select.
Selecting Rock: Visit your local stone center to select the rock that will be used around the perimeter of your pond. Choose several different shapes and sizes that all blend together well. Flat flagstone is a good choice to go around the perimeter. Pick out some nice boulders for an extra-added natural effect.
After visiting your pond store and purchasing your supplies you are now ready for installation.
NOTE: If your pond will have a waterfall, SEE: Building A Waterfall before installing your liner. This will help you to see more clearly how the liner for the pond will be installed, and then how the liner for the waterfall will be installed.
- STEP 6: Installing The Liner.
Before installing the liner, make sure you have flattened the top of any perimeter soil berms. If you did not fill excavation with sand and/or carpet, make sure than any stones or other sharp objects have been removed. Rub your hands over the surface of the soil to make sure evrything is smooth.
With a couple of people helping, the liner is unfolded into the excavation. It's best to do this with bare feet, or soft-soled shoes. The liner is then smoothed into place from the center-bottom up, and is lapped over the top edge of the pond 6 to 12 inches. A small amount of water is typically added to the bottom of the pond to weigh the liner down and help with the smoothing process. Folds in the liner, which will be necessary to help it conform to the curves of the pond sides, are incorporated as the liner is smoothed out.
- STEP 7: Place Your Pump. Place your pump atop the liner in the bottom of your pond (or atop the liner in the location your dug out for it). Attach tubing and drape over the waterfall foundation. SEE: Building A Waterfall for detailed instructions for setting up your pump properly.
- STEP 8: Install Any Interior Rocks. Once the liner is in place and your pump installed, you may begin to add rocks or small boulders to the INTERIOR of the pond if desired. Rocks that will be placed beneath the water surface should be washed and scrubbed thoroughly to remove all dirt and other particles.
- STEP 9: Add Water. Now you can begin to add water! It could take some time to fill your pond with water using a garden hose. While the pond is filling, use the time to begin placing exterior rocks around the perimeter of you pond.
- STEP 10: Placing Rock. Start by placing flat stones around the perimeter of your pond. Allow these flat stones to hang a little over the edge of where the water will be. Then place rocks or boulders of random size and shape atop the flat stones. If you are building a waterfall start placing rocks here too. Make sure the liner, pump and tubing for the waterfall are all in place. When the pond is full of water all thats left to do is turn on the pump!
SEE: Building A Waterfall for detailed instructions on how to build your waterfall and set up the pump.
Other Tips:
If your water turns green within a few days, talk with your pond professional about remedies. This is one reason you should seriously consider using a filtration system. Filtration systems are easy to install, and well worth the time and extra money.
It is essential to clean and rinse ponds before using it since fish and other water plants are sensitive to contaminants. "Curing" concrete ponds combined with water changes, scrubbing, filling, and painting with vinegar is also important.
Allow chloramines and chlorine to dissipate especially if you used tap water to fill the pond. You can also utilize a commercial chlorine neutralizer from pet shops to solve this problem.
Ensure that all equipment such as fountains, waterfalls, filters, and lights are working satisfactorily before adding the fish and plants.
It is also better if you allow at least one week for the plants to settle in the pond before adding the fish. Clean up the pond regularly for dead leaves as this will add unwanted excess nutrients to the water and decay it as well.
Observe Proper Maintenance:
Keep the pond clean of fallen vegetation and dead leaves. The frequency of cleaning will depend on the amount of vegetation falling into the water and on the time of the year. Do the cleaning at the beginning of Spring before the temperature of the water starts to rise.
Do not feed your fish more than they can eat. Start by feeding them smaller amounts during a feeding until you see them stop eating. Fish eat very little if any during the Winter.
Clean up the filters periodically.
If water evaporates, add water in the pond periodically. A normal garden hose will do. However, no more than 10-20% should be added at any time because of the chlorine levels in tap water.
In Summary
What should a well-designed water feature include?
- Mechanical and biological filtration
- Pump and plumbing, if there is a waterfall
- Sturdy liner and underlayment
- Rock work, or brick
- Underwater lighting, if you choose
- A berm
- Waterfall(s)
- Electrical source8
*To operate any electrical equipment near a water garden, use an outdoor outlet. If your pump cord will not reach to an existing outlet have an outlet installed set at least 6 feet from the water and use only an outlet that is equipped with a ground fault interrupter (GFIC) for safety. These devices will cut off the power the moment water is detected in contact with the wiring. Your cable should be protected in a conduit, a plastic tube for electrical wires, so you won't dig into it accidentally. Extension cords with an integrated GFIC can be used for shorter distances. You can hide them under stones or mulch.
It's really not that hard to build a garden pond, you just have to decide you're going to do it, and then jump in - not to the pond! - to the project. If all of this seems to much for your budget of time, and you don't want to undertake the project yourself, many landscaping contractors also offer water garden construction services. When hiring out work, get several competitive bids and always ask for and check out references.
SEE ALSO:
Building A Waterfall
Growing Aquatic Pond Plants
Japanese Gardening
Rock Gardening
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