Leslie Ann Camellia Sasanqua -

(Camellia sasanqua 'Leslie Ann')


Other Common Names: Fall Camellia , Autumn Camellia, Sasanqua Camellia, Camellia
Family: Theaceae Genus: Camellia Species: sasanqua Cultivar: 'Leslie Ann'
Leslie Ann Camellia Sasanqua
Gardenality.com Planted · 11 years ago
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Samantha Steele

Samantha Steele · Gardenality Genius · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Planting
Step-By-Step Instructions for Planting Most Shrubs
Below are general guidelines for properly planting a container-grown shrub in the landscape. This planting technique is suitable for most average soils, particularly those found in the South, with the exception of sandy, quick-draining soils.

STEP 1 - Begin by digging a hole at least twice as wide as the rootball and no deeper than the rootball.

STEP 2 - Remove plant from container and scratch exterior of root ball to a depth of 2 inches to loosen feeder roots. Place in hole making sure that the top edge of the root ball is 1-2" above ground level. If necessary, place more soil in hole and tamp to achieve proper height. Note: If planting on a slope, where there will most likely be good drainage, you may plant with top edge of root ball even to ground level. Azaleas, Camelias, and Rhododendrons and other plants that do not like wet feet at all, may require higher planting, particularly if the soil in the planting area is consistently moist.

STEP 3 - Mix an organic soil ammendment such as mushroom compost, or your own home-made compost, at a 50/50 ratio with soil removed from the planting hole. Backfill soil mixture to top of rootball, tamping as you go to remove any air pockets, and taper gradually from top-edge of root ball to ground level. Essentially, you are planting the rootball in a 'raised mound.' Do not place any soil on top of rootball.

STEP 4 - With remaining soil mixture build a water retaining ring to around 3" or so in height around perimiter of mound.

STEP 5 - After planting water thoroughly.

STEP 6 - Broadcast a granular shrub fertilizer, or organic fertilizer, atop rootball in amount suggested on label. NOTE: An excellent alternative method of fertilization, is slow release Agriform Fertilizer Tablets. These will slowly release nutrients to your plant for a period of up to 2 years.

STEP 7 - To retain adequate moisture and suppress weed growth, apply a 2 inch layer of wood mulch, or a 4-inch layer of pine straw.

STEP 8 - Water your newly planted shrub deeply at time of planting. Thereafter, monitor soil moisture by using the finger test, and water when necessary. Most likely, your newly planted shrub will not need watering everyday. Over-watered plants can develop root-rot and die. A good soaking rain or watering once or twice a week is usually all that's necessary until your shrub is established. Once established, most shrubs will need little attention to watering, except during dry periods or prolonged drought. Shrubs planted during the Fall and Winter months, while in dormancy, will require less water.

Container-Grown Shrubs vs. Balled-And-Burlapped Shrubs
I recommend planting container-grown shrubs rather than field-grown shrubs. Container shrubs come with their entire root systems in tact, while field-grown shrubs lose many of their roots during the digging process. I've found that container-grown shrubs are easier to manage, root in faster, grow much more quickly, and have a much greater survival rate. This being said, if you want a very large specimen or you cannot find the shrub you want in a container, purchase a field-grown plant.

10 years ago ·
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Samantha Steele

Samantha Steele · Gardenality Genius · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Pruning
Camellias do not require pruning. However, you may decide to prune your camellia to maintain fullness, or to rejuvinate an old plant that has become spindly.

Pruning Younger Camellia Bushes
For younger plants (1 to 10 years old) it is best to do some shaping just after the blooms have faded (late Spring or early Fall depending on the variety). Camellia 'Sasanquas' bloom during the fall into early winter, while Camellia 'Japonicas' bloom in late winter through early spring.

It is okay during any time of year to remove a stray or broken branch.

Cease any pruning of Camellias after July and you are almost guaranteed not to effect the next season's bloomage.

Rejuvination Pruning of a Camellia
If your older camellia has become overgrown, rejuvenation pruning may be necessary. An old camellia can be cut back as far as necessary, even to a stump, and will regenerate into a beautiful plant. Rejuvination pruning should be done in late winter, just before new growth begins to emerge in spring.

Tree-Forming A Camellia
Whether young or old, a camellia can also be trained to grow as a small tree. To tree-form your camellia, do so in late winter by simply pruning away lower branches and/or stems moving upward to a point that is satisfying in appearance. Make cuts as close as possible to the trunk being careful not to injure the trunk. Step back after each cut or two to make take a look at the shape. Tree-forming may also help to rejuvenate older camellias.

10 years ago ·
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Samantha Steele

Samantha Steele · Gardenality Genius · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Feeding
Fertilize Japanese camellia after the blooms have faded in early spring. Fertilize again, if needed, lightly in late summer, but no later than 2 months prior to the first frost in your area. Fertilize with an Azalea, Camellia & Rhododendron fertilizer or a natural or organic fertilizer. These are acid-loving plants so make sure to use a fertilizer with a 'nutrient package' containing special extra-added nutrients such as iron and sulfur. Avoid using fertilizers with high amounts of nitrogen (the first number in fertilizer) and phosphorous (the middle number). Always apply fertilizers at the rate suggested on product label.

If the foliage on your camellia turns yellowish-green to yellow, this could be an indicator of iron deficiency or soil that is too alkaline. Before applying iron, sulfur or any other product to make soil more acidic, check to make sure that the yellowing foliage is not a result of oversaturated soil, or insect infestation. If you are unsure as to what is causing the yellowing of leaves snip off a branch with some leaves attached and take it to your independent local nursery and garden center. An experienced professional there should be able to diagnose the problem and offer recommendations for a remedy.

10 years ago ·
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Samantha Steele

Samantha Steele · Gardenality Genius · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Problems
Camellia are long-lived durable plants however consistently wet soil can cause major problems with the roots. Camellia like a moist but well-drained soil.

10 years ago ·
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