Gardenality.com · Gardenality Genius · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Planting
I recommend planting Camellia japonicas in sites that provide well-drained, fertile soil. Though camellias will tolerate full sun, I like to plant them where they'll receive some shade in the afternoon. Camellias do not like dense, compacted or consistently wet soils, which can cause problems with the roots. Because they like acid soil, camellias are perfect for planting under the canopies of taller pine trees. The needles provide free mulch and also make the soil more acidic.

When planting planting camellias in well-drained, loose, fertile soil I usually add just a few handfuls of organic matter or compost to the backfill mix and plant with the top edge of the rootball even with or slightly above ground level to allow for settling.

When planting a camellia in clay or compacted soil, I always dig the planting hole about three times the width of the root ball and mix in about 1/3 mushroom compost, or some other form of organic matter, to 2/3 of the native soil removed from the planting hole. If the ground is level, I always plant a camellia with the top edge of the root ball about an inch or so above ground level, then tapering the backfill soil mixture from the top edge of the root ball gradually to existing grade. To capture additional water during the first year, I usually use any left over soil to build a water retention ring about an inch or two high around the planting hole.

Gardenality.com · Gardenality Genius · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Feeding
I feed camellias in spring, after they bloom, and in early fall with a well-balanced, slow-release Azalea, Camellia & Rhododendron type fertilizer.

Gardenality.com · Gardenality Genius · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Problems
Typically, camellias are long-lived, low maintenance plants that have very few serious problems with insects or disease. Consistently wet soil can be problematic, causing root rot and stem rot.

Gardenality.com · Gardenality Genius · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Pruning
Camellias do not require pruning. However, you may decide to prune your camellia to maintain fullness, or to rejuvinate an old plant that has become spindly.

Pruning Younger Camellia Bushes

For younger plants (1 to 10 years old) it is best to do some shaping just after the blooms have faded. Camellia 'Japonicas', such as Lady Vansittart bloom in late winter through early spring. I usually do no more than prune a stray branch here or there that is spoiling the shape of the plant. However, if a more formal shape is desired, camellias respond well to shearing. It is okay during any time of year to remove a stray or broken branch. Cease any pruning of Camellias after July and you are almost guaranteed not to effect the next season's bloomage.

Rejuvination Pruning of a Camellia
If your older camellia has become overgrown, rejuvination pruning may be necessary. An old camellia can be cut back as far as necessary, even to a stump, and will regenerate into a beautiful plant. Rejuvination pruning should be done in late winter, just before new growth begins to emerge in spring. Camellias.

Tree-Forming A Camellia
Whether young or old, a camellia can also be trained to grow as a small tree. To tree-form your camellia, do so in late winter by simply pruning away lower branches and/or stems to a point that is satisfying in appearance. Step back after each cut or two to make take a look at the shape. Tree-forming may also help to rejuvinate older camellias.

Gardenality.com · Gardenality Genius · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F
This old favorite introduced in 1887, is still attracting attention with its multiple color blooms. Usually white striped pink but changing to white edged pink to solid red or even 1/2 red and 1/2 white. Often there are several different color blooms at the same time. A fun plant & dependable, compact grower.

Lady Vansittart camellia can be used in the landscape in straight or curved rows to form colorful, evergreen hedges and screens. It can also be "limbed up" to form a very attractive small tree placed in small groupings or as a focal point specimen. It is perfect for use as espalier: trained to grow flat against a wall.