Stayman Winesap Apple -

(Malus domestica 'Stayman Winesap')

Fruit Trees


Other Common Names: Apple, Apple Tree
Family: Rosaceae Genus: Malus Species: domestica Cultivar: 'Stayman Winesap'
Stayman Winesap Apple
Brent Wilson Planted · 6 years ago
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Brent Wilson · 4 Edits

Stayman Winesap Apple Overview

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Stayman Winesap Apple In Member Gardens

test 1.0.1
test 1.0.1by Brian Young (3 Plants)
Orchard
Orchardby Melody Rader (7 Plants)
Backyard
Backyardby Lauren Ely (33 Plants)
Fruit Trees
Fruit Treesby Tami Pleso (7 Plants)

Brent Wilson

Brent Wilson · Gardenality Administrator · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Planting
First, in most cases, you'll need to plant at least two varieties of apple trees for pollination purposes. Some apple varieties, such as Lodi, Liberty, Jonathan, Gala, Golden Delicious, and Granny Smith are labeled as "self-pollinating." These varieties are able to pollinate themselves but will produce more apples if they are cross-pollinated.

Secondly, plant standard apple trees - one's which are not dwarf or semi-dwarf, about 25 to 30 feet apart. Standard apple trees are the hardiest and easiest to grow.

Plant standard size apple trees in a location that provides full sun and a soil with a pH between 5.5 and 8.5, but preferably between 6 and 6.5. Apple trees like a rich, loamy soil but will grow in sandy or clay soil. Apple trees do not like wet feet so make sure whatever the soil type that it is well-drained.

For best results, purchase at least a two-year old container-grown tree from your local nursery and garden center.

Planting A Container-Grown Apple Tree:

To plant a container-grown apple tree, dig the planting hole two to three time's as wide and not much deeper than the root ball. If your soil is clay-like or compacted, mix in some good organic matter at about a 30 to 70 ratio with the soil removed from the planting hole. Then set the root ball in the hole making sure that the bud union is about an inch or so above ground level. The bud union is where the root system meets the trunk of the tree (where the tree was grafted onto the root stock). Backfill the hole to the top edge of the root ball with the soil mixture tamping as you go to remove air pockets.
Water thoroughly and then apply a 1 to 2 inch layer of aged shredded wood mulch or pine straw.

Planting A Bare-Root Apple Tree:

If planting a bare-root tree dig the hole at least two feet deeper than the roots and then add some of the native soil removed from the planting hole back into the hole before planting. This will make it easier for the root system to spread out. As you plant, spread the tree roots out, checking as you go to ensure that they are not twisted or crowded. Firm or pack the soil around the roots to remove any air pockets.When planted, the bud union should be about one to two inches above the ground. The bud union is the spot where the root system meets the trunk. Do not fertilize your tree when planting because this will burn the roots. Pack the soil down and then water the tree well. This will eliminate any remaining air pockets and ensure the roots have good contact with the soil.

2 years ago ·
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Brent Wilson

Brent Wilson · Gardenality Administrator · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Pruning
Professional fruit growers use several different pruning and training methods for training apple and pear trees: Central Leader, Modified Central Leader, and Open Center or Vase Shape. Click on the link below to find instructions for the Central Leader and Open Center Methods.

www.gardenality.com/Articles/361/How-To-Info/Pruning/How-to-Prune-an-Apple-or-Pear-Tree/default.html

2 years ago ·
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Brent Wilson

Brent Wilson · Gardenality Administrator · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Feeding
Fruits, being largely water and sugars, remove relatively few nutrients from the soil, compared to other crops. Therefore, much of the nutrients a fruit tree needs can be met through decomposition of mulch (if you mulch your trees), or by the application of lime and organic soil ammendments used when planting the tree.

Supplementary fertilization may still be required for optimal growth and production of fruit. Doing a soil test can indicate what elements and nutrients may be deficient in your soil. Many Local Cooperative Extension Services provide soil testing services, or foliar analysis.

You can fertilize your fruit trees either organically, or with commercial fertilizers.

Fertilizing A Newly Planted Fruit Tree:

Use a weak solution of Fish Emulsion as a starter fertilizer, or a pinch of bone meal may be added to the planting hole, but do not add commercial fertilizer.

Fertilizing Established Fruit Trees Organically

Most organic fertilization programs focus on supplementing nitrogen as the key element, since it is needed in the greatest amount by the fruit trees. If you have only a few trees, and you want to fertilize them organically, buy a bottle of Fish Emulsion at your local nursery and garden center. You may also use granulated organic fertilizer, such as those that contain chicken manure or other organic substances.

Apply organic fertilizer (at rate recommended on label) by hand or with a rotary type spreader around the drip-line of the tree about 3 to 4 months prior to harvest date. If you make your own organic compost, simply use it as a mulch around the the drip line to a point 12" from the trunk. The nutrients will seep down into the soil where they can be picked up by the root system.

Fertilizing Established Fruit Trees With A Commercial Fertilizer:

To fertilize a fruit tree with a commercial fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, toss a thin circle of pelletized fertilizer around the trees "drip line," which is the part of the soil below the outer perimeter of the branch system. Follow instructions on product label for proper application rates and methods.

During the first year after transplanting, spread fertilizer after new growth has emerged in spring. If using 10-10-10, spread about 1 pound per inch of trunk diameter. Then work the fertilizer into the soil with a trowel, and mulch - making sure you keep the mulch at least 12 inches away from the trunk of the tree.

In each subsequent year, make a split application: half after new growth has emerged in spring, and the remaining half at a month later, using 10-10-10 at the rate of 1 pound per inch of trunk diameter. Trunk diameter is measured 12 inches above the ground.

2 years ago ·
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Brent Wilson

Brent Wilson · Gardenality Administrator · Zone 8A · 10° to 15° F · Comment About Problems
Let's face it, there's no hiding from the fact that insects really like fruit trees. Thing is, many insects that visit fruit trees will not cause serious damage or problems. Much of the problems with insects can be kept at a minimum by following some basic guidelines for prevention. Click on the link below to find some useful tips for preventing insects.

www.gardenality.com/Articles/148/Problems-and-Solutions/Insects/Insect-Prevention-On-Fruit-Trees-and-Plants/default.html

Disease control is another consideration. Click on the link below to find helpful tips for controlling disease and fungus on fruit trees.

www.gardenality.com/Articles/75/Problems-and-Solutions/Diseases-and-Fungus/Disease-Control-for-Fruit-Trees/default.html

2 years ago ·
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