Hi, I have berries galore strawberry bushes. The product info says they are a runner type variety, so I assume this means they are supposed to grow long shoots and I believe mine have. I thought this was a good thing, but have yet to get more than half a dozen berries. Is this good, bad, should I trim them off, are they stunting the growth of my berries or will the runners (which appear to have blooms) product more berries?

Answer #4 · Gardenality.com's Answer · Everbearing strawberry bplants produce less fruit at any given time, but over a longer period of time. June bearing strawberries produce a heavy crop of fruit but for a short period of time. No matter what type of strawberry plant, during the first year they usually don't produce a bumper crop.

During the first month after planting, or of blooming, you can remove all the flowers from new plants to encourage root development and establishment. Then, throughout the first year, you can cut out all runners or starter plants. In the second year, allow a few runners to take root and grow. You’ll get a full harvest from the original plants in that second year, while the new runners are just getting established. Because strawberry plants only live for 3 to 4 years, these runners will become your future plants. At the beginning of the third year, pull up the original plants, and let the newer ones put out their runners into the freed space. You can just manually move the runners where you want them before they root down. Continue the process back and forth each year. Sounds a little complicated but once you get the hand of it it's no problem.

Brent)

Answer #3 · Gardenality.com's Answer · Josee,

Here's more exact and detailed information concerning the pruning of Strawberry plants:

- Cut the flowers off the strawberries as soon as they open in newly planted beds. Continue to remove the blossoms until the beginning of July, and then allow the plants to flower normally. Blossom removal in the first year encourages healthy root growth.

- Prune off all runners that form on the strawberry plants, cutting them off where they emerge from the main plant. Runners grow as long tendrils from the crown of the plant. The runners set down roots and become new plants if left in place. Runner removal on everbearing plants creates larger plants that produce more and larger berries.

- Thin the strawberry bed after harvesting the last berry crop. Pull out excess plants so the remaining plants have a 6- to 8-inch space between them. Allow any runners that form after thinning to set roots.


Note - Everbearing strawberries produce well for one to two years before they require replacement. Pull out the original plants and allow the new plants set by the late summer runners to grow. Replace the plants completely if the new runners suffer from disease. So, at the end of the second year you may want to allow the new runners to root well so that you can remove the original plant and leave the newly rooted plant.


Here's some more tips on growing Strawberries:

- Preferred pH level is 5.5 - 6.5 ...

If the pH is higher or lower you may want to adjust it. If the pH is lower, more acidic, you will need to apply lime. Pelletized Lime is best. It's quick release and adjusts the pH instantly once watered in.

If the pH Is higher then your soil is too alkaline. Apply Aluminum Sulfate to lower the pH. Aluminum Sulfate is quick release.

- Do not over fertilize. Too much fertilizer makes the plants grow quickly but reduces berry production.

- Everbearing strawberries need 1 inch of water weekly throughout the growing season, and you need to supplement the plants' water needs during dry spells.

- Fertilize the plants using a side-dressing method about one month after planting.

- Cultivate the soil around the plants shallowly with a hoe to help control weed growth in the strawberry beds. You can also pull weeds by hand as necessary.

- Mulch over the plants once they go dormant in late fall or early winter by placing 3 to 4 inches of straw over each everbearing plant. Set the mulch down before temperatures reach 20 degrees Fahrenheit to prevent damage to the plants from cold weather.

- Remove the mulch from the plants in early spring, raking it to the garden rows so it is easily accessible if temperatures dip and there is a threat of frost.


Hope this more detailed information helps you out.

Brooks Wilson))

Answer #2 · Josee Trudeau's Answer · Yes my plants get sun from early morning to late afternoon. I water once a day almost every day especially when it's 30 degrees out.

So you're saying the runner is solely to re-produce and not fruit bearing, so basicly its ok to prune them as long as they're not rooted. What if you pull a rooted runner out?

Thanks for your help!
Josee)

Answer #1 · Gardenality.com's Answer · Hi Josee,

Berries Galore Strawberry plants are everbearing. This means that once they start producing they will keep producing. For better production make sure to harvest berries about every four days or so. Some gardeners pinch off the first flush of flowers or runners to allow the new plants to root in well before producing fruit. This pinching or pruning will actually strengthen the plant. It won't hurt to do this after you have already harvested. Just pinch or prune off the new runners that haven't rooted. This should increase your production to some degree. Only do this one time.

Are your plants in full sun? Strawberry plants prefer full to mostly sun. Production will be far less if they don't get enough sun.

Also, make sure to not over water. This will slow production as well. If the soil is damp, hold off on watering. Strawberry plants as well as other fruit and vegetable plants appreciate a little drying out, just don't wait too long. This will help to set more buds. More buds means more production.

Hope this helps you out.

Brooks Wilson))